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Embera Village Excursion

It wasn’t exactly a bust, but the Embera excursion left a bit to be desired. It wouldn’t have been bad at all if there hadn’t been 7 hours of driving to do 4 hours of activity. It was billed at a little more than 2 hrs each way, but we had to detour to the Gamboa Rainforest Resort to pick up two more people, which added about an hour each way.

We eventually arrived at a tributary of the Chagres River where a couple huge dugout canoes with outboards were waiting. After piling in we took off across a wide section and up a side stream. Unfortunately, due to the noise of the motor, we didn’t get to see any wildlife. This might not actually have been an altogether bad thing, being as we were told that the howler monkeys have the rather unfortunate habit of flinging poo at passersby.

In any case, we eventually arrived at a subtributarylet that led to a rather impressive yet falling just short of spectacular waterfall with a decent pool at the bottom. Alex swam while Isabel collected froglets and various other wildlife that had been happily minding their own business before finding themselves scooped up and subjected to the careless scrutiny of a six year old. Meanwhile our Amerindian guide worked the crowd, climbing the waterfall, posing majestically, and finally diving into the pool from the lowest rock.

After a 30 minute frolic, we were herded back into the dugouts, and went back downriver to the Embera village. This, we were told by the tour guide, was essentially how they were found by the Spanish. Except, perhaps, for the solar power panel attached to one hut, and the water tap from which the village kids gleefully filled their water balloons. I guess some things are universal.

We were presented with fried fish and plantain served in a banana leaf, which wasn’t bad at all. Then one of the women explained in Spanish various aspects of the Embera culture while the tour guide translated. A walkaround of the village followed, and we were invited to buy crafts, and get painted, and to dance with the villagers. Both kids got ‘tattoos’, Isabel on her arm and Alex on his back. I just hope it wears off.

When all was done, we re-boarded the canoes and were ferried back to the landing. Our Amerindian guide got himself a hotdog and a coke from a little stand while the tour guide went to get the bus started.

Then, another 3+ hours drive and we were back at the hotel, just in time for way too much food (again). Definitely going to need to play a lot of squash next week.